It’s February and the icy grip of winter has its hold on most of the United States. Many of us are confined to our tying desks, dreaming of warm spring days, wet wading and rising fish. One of the best ways to escape the winter lull is to accept the frozen waterways as they are and go ice fishing! Whether you’re a beginner just wanting to get out on the water and see what it’s all about or you’re serious about making it your main wintertime pastime, ice fishing is a great way to shake off the winter blues.
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This article will not only help improve your catch rate and general experience on the water but will help the beginner ice angler make educated decisions when it comes to gear that is not 100% required to catch fish.
The first and most important piece of equipment an ice angler will need is an auger. This is going to be your way of getting through the ice, to the fish waiting below.
There are three kinds of augers:
Choosing the right auger can be daunting, however, it doesn’t have to be, it’s important to consider a few things when making the decision:
A good electric or gas auger is somewhere in the $250 to $300 range. They will undoubtedly make your experience more enjoyable as well as improve your mobility and flexibility while fishing but are not 100% necessary to be successful.
A good hand auger is clearly less expensive and will be reliable/easy to use, but slower and will somewhat limit the amount of water you can cover.
All the augers mentioned herein do the same thing, drill holes, but have advantages and disadvantages in their own respective ways. Choose your auger depending on your unique angling style, preference and of course budget.
Once you’ve selected your fishing spot (more on that part later) and drilled your hole there’s not much else to do but start fishing. This is where things start to get a bit more complex. Your setup (the rod and reel you choose) will vary somewhat depending on your situation and targeted fish species along with the kind of fishing you will be doing.
Really invested ice fishermen will often carry 5-10 rods with them on a trip to ensure that they have a rod for every situation. Having a multiple rods is not necessary at all to catch fish. But just like the gas or electric auger—having the flexibility that comes with carrying 2, 3 or even more rods will very likely improve your overall experience and success.
Your two main options for getting your own rod & reel:
This is going to be the easiest and cheapest option when it comes to ice fishing for beginners.
There are a number of reliable pre-made ice fishing reel and rod combos that can be found at the usual big sporting and outdoor supply places like Bass Pro as well as your local tackle supplier, especially during the ice fishing season. While these combos are not on the high end of the spectrum as far as quality goes they do get the job done and are usually reliable for the price.
Ugly Stik makes the GX2 combo which is fairly stout in build quality and for around $30 it is a great way to get started.
The only downside to this rod is its action. It’s only available in a medium heavy which can be a bit overpowered in some situations like when fishing for panfish or trout. However, if you plan on targeting bass and bigger fish like lake trout and pike this will handle them with ease.
If you do end up choosing this combo its best use is for jigging spoons and other slightly heavier lures as well as fishing heavier bait rigs. This does not necessarily mean that you will be limited to just these styles of fishing only that this combo is best suited in those areas mentioned.
These pre-made combos are a great place to start for the beginner ice fisher.
This is the best option for ensuring you get exactly what you need for the kind of fishing you plan on doing.
When you buy the rod and reel separately it allows you to fine-tune the action and length of the rod to fit your desired fishing style.
The action you choice should be determined mostly by what fish species you will be targeting and how you will be targeting them.
Here is a general guide for choosing the rod you will need based on fish species and what each rod’s best use is:
The majority of these rods should be paired with an ice fishing specific reel or 500 sized spinning reel. On the larger and heavier rods small baitcasting reels can be used to handle the larger baits and fish, as well as the heavier line required to deal with bigger fish.
Making your own combos can be pricey, it’s not uncommon to spend more than $100 on a rod and reel, but it does come with the performance of a higher-end rod and the confidence of knowing you have exactly what you need for your situation.
Trout: Micro jig heads tipped with wax worms or earthworms, small spoons, and soft plastics.
Pike: Deadbaits, large spoons, and rattle baits, large soft plastics
Perch & Panfish: Micro jig heads tipped with wax worms, small soft plastics.
Walleye: Minnows and live bait, soft plastics, medium spoons, and rattle baits
Bass: Minnows and live bait, soft plastics and Medium-sized jigging spoons and jigs.
Lake trout: Deadbaits, live baits, large spoons, and soft plastics.
This section is to give one an idea of what they need before going out—the general bait and lures above may vary greatly depending on your body of water.
Equipment You Don’t Need to Find Success, But Will Improve Your Experience & Perhaps Your Success Rate
Flashers are compact sonar systems used specifically for ice fishing. They have a very narrow cone of vision that descends vertically below the angler and allows the angler to know the depth of the water. Moreover, they help the angler determine whether or not there are fish active in the area.
Ice fishing flashers are particularly helpful when fishing a new body of water or when you’re trying to get an idea of the depth/structure, as well locating where the fish are in the water column.
The technology has improved massively in the last few years to the point that you can see your lure along with the fish. This allows the angler to “sight fish”.
The higher-end sonar systems like the $1000 Garmin Panoptix allow the angler to see 40 feet horizontally in every direction, not just what’s below them. Obviously, you don’t need to spend $1k on a new flasher or sonar, but if you are looking to step up your game buying a flasher is one of the best ways to do it.
Ice fishing has been known to be a fairly cold experience, the best way to get out of the cold is by having an ice fishing shanty.
These shelters are easy to transport and quick to set up. Ice fishing shanties typically have reflective insides that hold heat, which is especially important when a small portable ice fishing heater is used.
If you want comfort while out on the water this is the way to go. Ice fishing shanties can be fairly pricey but are worth the money if you plan on going out often.
Finding fish while ice fishing can be challenging, the ice renders the water featureless and lakes can often be difficult to decode even without the ice. If you are familiar with a body of water, that can take some of the guesswork out of it—but that in no way makes it easy.
Structure of any kind: When ice fishing your best bet for finding fish is going to be by locating some form of structure.
Look for weed beds, boulders, downed logs, sunken brush or an old tire. Once you find cover you will usually find concentrated numbers of active fish.
A transition from hard bottom to soft: If you are not familiar with the water, then the flasher or sonar really are what make this technique viable. If you don’t have a flasher or sonar this trick only works in areas with clear water, where you can see the bottom and you can visually make out the differences below you.
Depending on your model you can usually use it to determine the composition of the bottom. A transition from hard, rocky bottom to soft sand or mud often means a switch from little to no food (on the hard bottom) to lots of food (on the soft bottom). Fish will cruise this transition looking for something to eat.
A transition of depth: This is any change in depth, usually a defined change from deep water to shallow.
Fish will congregate around this transition, coming up from deeper areas to feed in the shallows. Cruising the transition line and moving into shallower or deeper water as they hunt. You can find these transitions either with your sonar or by using an online Navionics map of your lake.
Depressions in the bottom: These can also be found either with a Navionics map or by drilling multiple holes in a line and testing the depth with a flasher until you find a depression.
Fish will generally congregate in the deepest water in the area so these depressions are a kind of magnet and will often hold large numbers of fish. This is especially true if there’s no obvious structure in the area.
Whether you are just discovering your favorite lake through the ice, or exploring a new hobby, ice fishing is a great way to get out of the house in the winter and shake off that cabin fever. It can be one of the most affordable angling methods to get into and doesn’t necessarily require much previous fishing experience to have success. Moreover, ice fishing can simply be a great way to relax with the family or hang out with friends and catch a few fish while you wait for the spring thaw. If you’re thinking about moving in this direction, we highly encourage it.
If you enjoyed this article, Ice Fishing for Beginners you might also enjoy, Fly Fishing for Beginners, from our friends over at Anchor Fly.
With a striking variety of colors and habitat in scenic locations – trout fishing occupies an iconic status in American angling culture. Trout fishing conjures images of remote streams with fly fisherman, as if they are walking into a classic picture from Field and Stream. Trout inhabit a variety of habitat through the United States. Additionally, trout can be caught using varied methods such as live bait, small lures, and fly fishing. With the trend toward more and more trout stocking, even anglers in non-traditional trout waters are starting to get into the sport. Trout consist of a wide number of closely related species in the Salmon family. Species in this family include salmon, all types of trout, char, and grayling. These fish vary tremendously in size and habitat. Anglers enjoy anything from fishing tiny flies for ½ pound brook trout to battling with large steelhead or Chinook salmon in the 30 to 50 pound range. However, the most popular form is traditional trout fishing, where anglers use light lures or baits to trick wary, colorful, and elusive trout. There are a few popular species that most fisherman will encounter. Rainbow Trout – The rainbow is most common and popular species. The rainbow shines with silver and pink, mixed with a spattering of other hues – giving the fish its name. A variant of the rainbow is the steelhead. Steelhead are a sea run subspecies that spend a large period of time in the ocean or great lakes only to run up small rivers to spawn. Brook Trout –Brook trout are dark with white specks and a deep red lower portion. They are a striking fish. Technically, they are part of the char family, and as such inhabit very cool and clear streams only. They often can be found in small elevated brooks and creeks. Brown Trout – The brown is colored brownish yellowish with dark spots. The brown was originally a European trout that is frequently stocked by fish and game commissions. Browns now sustain breeding populations throughout the United States. Lake Trout – The lake trout is a large, dark colored trout. Unlike most other species, it lives in larger bodies of water. The lake trout is also atypical of trout because it spends most of its time in deep areas. Streams Most trout fishing occurs in smaller flowing bodies of water. This includes moderate size rivers right down to the most narrow and shallow brook. Trout like cool, flowing water often found in wooded and remote areas. A secluded stream in a paradise like woodland or mountain setting is an ideal when dreaming of trout fishing. Streams are important to trout because they are typically sit and wait predators that look for floating prey. Along the stream, anglers look for moderately deep and moderately fast portions. There needs to be some depth and cover, but still enough current to drag food by. Avoid fast rapids, extremely shallow riffles, or areas where the flowing water slows to a big pool. Pro Tip – try fishing eddys. Eddys are the slow circling current of water directly downstream of a rock. Insects may fall in the water and be swept into an eddy. There the trout finds a small slow moving circle of water with food to eat. Throw your fly there and see what happens! Similarly, any other place where you see currents swirling can be outstanding fishing. Lakes and Ponds Lake trout tend to be found in a far different habitat, deep down in a lake. A boat and fish finder can be needed for this species. Stocked trout of any species can be found in all variety of lakes and ponds. Most of these will be yearly fish that do not sustain a breeding population. They may or may not follow wild trout behavior or feeding patterns. Trout Lures Trout eat a variety for foods including insects, worms, leeches, crustaceans, fish roe, and minnows. Anglers usually try one of three fishing strategies – lures, live bait, or fly fishing. Below you will find the best lures and baits to try with your regular light action spinning tackle. Then read on to learn the basics of fly fishing, where the angler can simulate the favorite small insects and larvae that trout love. Trout bait preferences are often linked to the size of the fish. Smaller trout, like a typical rainbow or brook trout in a small creek are often caught on small flies or small bait. Larger species hit worms, minnows, or somewhat larger lures. Spoons or spinners – Aggressive trout do eat minnows and other tiny fish species. A small, flashy bait can get attention and cause a hard strike. Feathers or Bucktail on the end appear to be most effective. Small jigs – 1/64 or 1/32 ounce jigs work well for smaller trout. Tip them with tubes that are larvae or worm shaped and avoid long curly tails. Bug Imitators – Use poppers, small crankbaits, or other lures that mimic small prey. Trout seem to hit anything that looks like a grasshopper, water bus, beetle, or other assorted crawly things that fall into the water. Trout can be finicky eaters, so live bait is also a key to a successful catch. Worms, fish roe, and pellet baits are typically used for trout live bait fishing. Worms – Trout feed on worms so readily that small crawlers are often called “trout worms”. Salmon eggs – Trout like to feed on the roe of various fish. Hook up a few juicy red salmon eggs and lightly drift them around the bottom. Power baits and various pellets – These are a supreme bait for stocked fish. These pellets mimic the hatchery food. However, native trout will almost never hit the unusual offering. Fly fishing exists in order to present very small and light lures that may not work with conventional spin casting gear. Fly fishing for trout uses large rods and fly line to float flies that imitate the trout’s favorite larvae and insects. Though there are probably a million different fly styles, all of them fit into three main styles. Each one imitates a slightly different type of trout prey. The size, depth, and retrieve differentiate each. Some anglers even tie their own flies to exactly match local subspecies of insects and larvae. Dry Flies – These flies are very small. They float on the surface and look like the small insects that may float on top of the water. One popular pattern imitates the midge fly. try slowly drifting a dry fly over a riffle toward a deeper pool. Nymphs – These flies sink below the surface. Nymphs imitate the larval and other developmental stages of aquatic insects. These are among the trout’s most favored food. Anglers try to match the nymph to the hatch, meaning the particular larvae that is active at any given day. Streamers – These are larger flies that also sink or suspend in the water column. Streamers often look like minnows or other larger bait. They are fairly popular for saltwater fly fishing, too. Fly rods come in sizes from 0 – 14. Most trout can be caught using a size 2-6 rod. If you are beginning, a size 3 to 5 is about right. Fly rods in the 5 -6 area are good if you want to dabble in multi-species angling and perhaps hook a bass or two. Of course, if you are going for large steelhead or salmon, you may need up to 7-10. The tighter the shoreline brush, the shorter the rod you should use. 6-8 feet is great for tighter areas while you can go with 8-10 for more open spaces. You will also need a reel and perhaps a rod case. Match these to the rod size. Though there are infinitely complex and expansive options, great fishing can be done with reasonably priced choices, as matching the fly to the hatch is much more important for your success. Fly anglers also experiment with two line styles – floating and sinking line. Both kinds are frequently used for trout. Floating line sits on top of the water and is best for presenting dry flies. Sinking line has quite a bit of variety. There are different weights that sink flies at different speeds. Most non-fly trout fishing can be accomplished with light to ultralight spinning tackle. The line should be quite light as well, with 4lb monofilament being a common choice. The baits are small, so the rod and line must be able to cast 1/64th ounce without too much loss of performance. If you are going for large steelhead, salmon, or big lake trout you will need medium or heavy action rods and matching gear. Tackle backpacks and/or fly fishing vests are often helpful when trout fishing. Remember that huge list of effective baits is also subject to the very finicky biting habits trout have. To match the hatch, you have to bring a lot of options. Pro tip – look like a true trout master by attaching a bunch of flies on a patch on the vest! Waterproof waders are a common accessory, especially when using flies. Since many trout habitats are quite shallow, it is possible to walk out and cover the entire area. Pro tip – always take a friend when you are wading, all it takes is a slip on a rock or a surprisingly deep pool to cause danger. Trout are great for eating and have a unique taste and texture. Interestingly, trout seem to be popular in every setting from a shore lunch to an upscale restaurant. Trout taste more flavorful than mild white fish, with an earthy or nutty flavor. The consistency is softer also, making the taste most somewhat like catfish. Trout can be prepared as fillets, but are usually simply cleaned and thoroughly washed out, with the head still on. Trout can be bony, but the meat will fall off the many small bones when cooked. Grilling, broiling, baking, and pan frying are all common. Season the trout lightly, perhaps with just salt and pepper, and maybe some lemon. Trout has traditionally been smoked for a different eating experience as well. With scenic locations, beautiful fish, and the tradition of fly fishing – trout angling has a special place in American outdoors culture. Since trout are fun to hunt, catch, and eat it is no surprise they remain so popular. With an extreme variety of species and fishing techniques, trout angling is still one of the iconic fishing adventures.Trout Species
Trout Habitat
Trout Lures and Baits
Fly Fishing for Trout
Trout Fishing Gear
Cooking and Eating Trout
About the Author: Jeff Christo is an angler from the rural areas of southern New Jersey. He is a regional expert in multi-species angling and shoreline fishing techniques.
The crappie in one of America’s most popular fish species. The crappie has an interesting body shape and color pattern that make it a beautiful and unique catch. It is common enough to be caught at all times of the year by everyone, yet is challenging enough to be exciting. Everyone from kids fishing for the first time on a beautiful spring day to expert ice fishermen love to catch crappie!
There is so much to love about this fish that almost any angler can get excited about it.
The crappie may have the most regional names of any popular fish. “Calico Bass”, “Paper Mouth”, “Speckled Perch” are the most popular and are based on the physical characteristics of the fish. Many more regional names exists including “moonfish”, ‘Strawberry Bass” and the French language inspired “sac-a-lait”, meaning bag of milk. All these names refer to two closely related fish species.
The crappie family is comprised of two species – the black crappie and the white crappie. It is usually quite easy to distinguish each type. The black crappie is usually darker overall with lots of black specks. The white crappie tends to be paler overall and the black specks form notable vertical bars. Since there is a lot of variation in coloring and markings, you may need to count the spines on the dorsal fins. The black crappie has 7 or 8 while the white crappie only has 5 or 6. Behavior patterns and angling techniques are virtually the same, so species type is not a significant factor for fisherman.
Locating crappies is the first step in successful fishing. Crappies are extremely structure dependent. The crappie sits right in the middle of the freshwater food chain, and structure helps it on both sides. Rocks, weeds, and brush hide the crappie from larger fish such as northern pike and also from herons and other predatory birds. Additionally, the structure is home to the minnows that crappie love to eat. On larger bodies of water, the crappie particularly gravitates toward mid depth structure during the majority of the year.
Though many anglers go directly for submerged trees, don’t overlook some other areas. Docks, fishing piers, and bridge pilings are a must try for crappie. These provide structure in an area that may also have deep water. Another underutilized environment is tail water from a dam. When slow moving, crappie may congregate in tailraces where small baitfish and minnows get trapped. If the tailrace turns into a small cove or pond, the crappie fishing may be excellent.
The location of crappie change by the season. Spring crappie fishing is one of the best bites of any fish at any time. The crappie is usually one of the first fish to get active in seasonal environments and will hit almost any bait aggressively. Spring crappie congregate near shallow structures, weed beds, and sunken limbs near shore. They collect in large schools and can sometimes be caught by the dozens at on location. Fall crappie fishing is quite similar, with strong feeding close to shore.
For the rest of the year, crappie hold tight to deeper cover. In the summer the crappie stick to the cooler depths. And in the winter they return there for warmth. The bite is still consistent, but much less aggressive. Pro tip – try cooler summer days or mild winter days. These changes in pattern seem to stimulate the crappies to feed in those seasons.
Crappies are mid water column upfeeders. They rarely feed on the surface or the bottom, instead hovering in between. They orient toward the surface and look up for food that is dropping toward them. They are very depth dependent, and finding the right structure at the right level is the key to locating the fish. This eliminates top water lures and bottom fishing, but leaves a wide range of options in between.
Live bait provides the most natural approach. Small worms that slowly drops can be very effective as it moves slowly and goes through the water column like many of the small insects and other invertebrates that the crappie may eat. Minnow that swims up and down will perfectly replicate the most popular forage for the crappie.
You will have to stick to small light lures that can vary depth. Leave the deep diving crankbait, Texas rigged plastic worms, and top water poppers and jerk baits at home. Those may work for bass or pike, but are unlikely to ever hook a crappie.
The best crappie fishing is usually done with live bait. Live minnows are the preferred forage of the crappie and are often irresistible bait. Use only small sized minnows of around an inch long. Only the most traditional and simple techniques are needed here. A bobber with a small hook of size 2-6 for minnows are ideal. Allow about 2 feet of line so the minnow can swim. Many crappie anglers like to try slip rigged bobbers so they can raise and lower the bait if they are fishing in larger lakes or where the depths vary greatly.
Keep in mind the crappie eat a variety of small insects and other food items, too. Traditional earthworms and other similarly shaped larvae such as mealworms will consistently hook crappies. The worms will of course also attract many smaller sunfish as well, so you may want to avoid them if you are worried about hooking bluegill after bluegill. The waxworms and mealworms are popular when ice fishing for crappie. Winter crappie are less likely to aggressively chase a fish, so slowly floating a worm or insect is often the best bait for those times of year.
The overall most popular lure is the small jig in the 1/16 or 1/32 size. The jig moves slowly, can change depths, and can imitate a small fish, insect, or other small invertebrate. Some crappie fisherman will use only this bait and can be successful with it in any condition.
Almost any type of jig body will catch crappie. A straight tube, small salted worm, or a curly tail of a small size all move in a way that will attract attention. The crappie eats a variety of baitfish and insects, so there is no exact match needed. Crappie can be very picky with lure colors. The general rule of lighter colors in clear lakes and darker in stained water doesn’t tell the whole story for crappie. Yellow, chartreuse, red, green, and white – either alone or in combinations are the most popular. Mixing in black or brown with these colors can be effective in dark water conditions. Some anglers swear by neon colors or even glow in the dark lures. Overall, it is clear that crappie notice color, and change their preference quite often. Therefore, experimenting with a variety of colors can be the best way to get on the bite for the day.
There are two basic ways to use the jig for crappie – the cast and retrieve or the vertical jig. Vertical jigging is a technique used mainly on boats in larger lakes. If you have a fish finder and locate a school of crappie, go with this strategy. The jig can be lowered off the side of the boat slowly to the depth of the fish. Pro tip – this works great for walleye too!
Aggressive spring crappie will hit just about any minnow mimicking fishing lure. The old fashioned in-line spinner can work to cover lots of water and find crappie. Since crappie are generally more apt to hit a slow moving bait, you shouldn’t rely on spinning lures as an all-inclusive method. However, to quickly find fish in the warmer weather, the spinner can be very effective. You can often find a hybrid spinner/jig/spinnerbait made for crappie or pan fish. It consists of a jig head with a small spinner blade and arm attached by clip. This rig can be fished like a spinnerbait or jigged. Since it is versatile, small, and eye-catching, many anglers like this bait for spring crappie fishing.
Trolling for crappie is very popular, especially on larger bodies of water. The most effective trolling tactic is the spider rig. Set up long (10 feet plus) rods on both sides of the boar as you troll. The wide spacing will help keep the lines away from each other and the boat. The wider the better as crappie will scatter as the boat passes right above them.
One of the best parts of the spider rig is the ability to try spinners and plastics of all different types at different depths all at the same time
Another unconventional set up is the umbrella rig. Umbrella jigging presents multiple baits on the same line. The line attaches to a wire that that split into various spokes with hooks – reminiscent of the umbrella. Anglers can mix and match baits on each hook to test out what the crappie are looking for on that day. Different colors, live baits, or jig styles can all be added until a favorite is found. However, there are some downsides. It can be much easier to tangle to rig in brush or other cover.
You can easily combine any of these techniques when going after crappie, and you will find they all work interchangeably in a way. Go ahead and be creative and you may just find a new combination that works. You can put a live minnow on the jig head and fish it like a lure to reach deep structure. Or try a curly tailed jig on a slip bobber that you slowly raise and lower as it drifts on the edge of a weed bed. If you live in cold climates, you can try any of these baits through the ice as well.
A classic light rod with ultralight spinning reel for small lures and bait is sufficient for anyone to get started fishing for crappie. The truth is that you don’t need the specialized equipment when you start. Almost any type of set up works with one or more of the techniques, which is one of the beauties of crappie fishing. But serious crappie anglers will want to try some great equipment that may take you to another level.
Crappie rods are long rods of many styles. Long rods and even cane poles for bank fishing help the angler set their jig or bait down softly and slowly right into cover. Many of the rods used by crappie anglers tower at over 10 feet and fold up in a telescoping fashion.
Long rods are ideal for the spider rigged trolling technique as well. This helps spread the lures out over a wide plane and avoids tangles with the other rods or motor.
Conversely, fisherman who vertical jig on large bodies of water use a different setup altogether. Since there is little casting involved, short rods that maneuver easily are preferred.
Crappie line selection presents an interesting paradox. You will find recommendations anywhere from ultralight 2lb test to pick up the sensitive bites to 30lb test to get in among the brush safely. For most situations, light monofilament works well, with 6-10lbs being common. Braided fishing line can be effective as well. Braided lines reduce the coil and flexibility found in mono which can be a barrier to hooking crappies when jigging especially. Do not use thick line, as crappie are wary of visible line and the fight doesn’t necessitate a power line.
Crappie tastes great and is often caught with a fish fry in mind. Crappie is a great treat and since no significant commercial fishery exists, you have to catch them and eat them fresh. They are easily filleted and only slightly bony. Crappie is light and flaky meat with a mild taste. It is not “fishy” at all.
Traditional pan frying is still the most popular way to cook crappie, but many cooks experiment with other preparations such as filleting the crappie with a sharp fish fillet knife or cooking whole. Oven baking and grilling are alternative means for cooking. Many eaters consider crappie to be the best tasting fish you can catch.
About the Author: Jeff Christo is an angler from the rural areas of southern New Jersey. He is a regional expert in multi-species angling and shoreline fishing techniques.
Welcome to our guide on northern pike fishing tips and techniques. In this article were going to reveal to you some of the top tips and techniques on how to properly and effectively fish for pike year round. Fishing for pike makes for great fun and can easily and effectively be done all year round. They’re extremely easy to target if you know what you’re doing and come in various shapes and sizes. The pike has an extremely bony filet but if properly prepared can easily become a great tasting boneless fish filet. What’s even better about the northern pike is the fact that if you live just about everywhere in Canada as well as in the Northern United States, generally speaking your local lakes and rivers are probably loaded with them. Like stated earlier these fish are extremely easy to target and are very plentiful, making them a very desirable target for seasoned anglers and new anglers alike. Pike are a very aggressive species of fish which will hit hard and fast at almost any time of the day regardless of the season. They like to hide in weed beds and can often times be found between 2 and 15 feet of water.
In order to properly and effectively catch pike you need to better understand the fish themselves. Pike, like most fish, are predators. Little has changed about this fish over the millennia because they are effective and adapted to completely dominate their environment. From their torpedo like shape to their needle sharp teeth this fish was designed to survive and thrive. Northern pike are great to fish year-round but there is one prime month out of the year in which they are the absolute best fish to go for, and that’s May. This is due to the fact that they’ve completely rejuvenated themselves from their earlier spawning season and in many places the ice has gone and the fisherman have started to come back out. Throw just about anything in front of them, and they’ll hit it.
There are some things that you need to take into consideration prior to going out and attempting to catch northern pike. The first thing you need to remember is that you need to have a wire leader on your line because these fish have extremely sharp and piercing teeth. They can easily bite through any regular monofilament line and after a small fight will go through braided line as well. This is why you need to ensure that you have a heavy leader of some type on your line. Often times you’ll want somewhere between 20-30 pound mono line or 15-20 pound braided line with a 12 inch black wire leader on the end of your line. There is one exception when you will want to use a smaller wire leader and that is when you’re using floating plugs. The reason why you would want to use a smaller, 6 inch wire leader is because the weight of a 12 inch wire leader would greatly affect the overall action of the floating plug.
Always remember that these fish were designed to be one of, if not the top fish in any river or lake. You need to ensure that you keep your distance once you actually land the fish. Do not attempt to put your hand (or fingers) inside of its mouth because if it clamps down, you’re in for a wild ride (and one heck of a story). You want to make sure that you land the fish with a net, and once you have it on board your boat or onshore, you will then use fishing pliers to remove the lure. If the fish is less than or equal to 10 pounds you can generally grab it across the back of its head right behind the eyes, right around the gill plate and effectively remove the lure. If the pike is larger than that you will want to keep it inside the net so that you have full control over the fish at all times. You want to ensure that you have a pair of needle nose pliers, the longer the better and a pair of jaw separators never hurt anybody.
This section of the page is more than likely the reason why you’re here. You want to learn the tips, tricks and techniques on how to land that trophy fish. Always remember that northern pike are an extremely fun fish to catch because they put up a great fight and if you’re hungry, they’re great eating. Below you will find the information you came looking for, the tips, tricks and techniques on how to catch northern pike.
Some common live bait that anglers will use when fishing for northern pike include frogs, leeches, minnows, and even worms. More often than not you’ll end up using minnows as your primary choice of live bait. You want to use minnows that are between 4 and 6 inches. While putting them on the hook you’ll want to hook them directly through the head going from bottom to top if jigging or through the lip if fishing around weed edges, shorelines or drop-offs. You can either find these minnows (shiners) at a local bait store or you can use a minnow net to catch minnows native to the lake. Generally speaking shiners are readily available at most local bait shops and are perfect for pike.
Most people would agree that live bait is generally the way to go. But with the northern pike, dead bait works just as good, if not better. Some of the best dead baits for pike include white fish, smelt, chubs, alewives and most people’s favorite, the sucker. The reason why the sucker is often times the most popular dead bait is because it’s very readily available at most bait shops. While using dead bait, primarily sucker fish, you’ll want to make sure that they’re roughly 8 to 12 inches long. This is because anything less than that will only promote smaller fish to hit. And if you’re like me, were only going after the big ones. One thing to keep in mind while using dead bait is the fact that you’ll want to keep your bait frozen right up until the point of using it. Once you’re ready to use your live bait you’ll want to let them thaw out about halfway or until you can get a hook through them. And remember, any bait that’s not used can simply be refrozen and used again at a later date.
One of the most common live bait rigs is a bobber rig. What a bobber rig consists of is a bobber, a length of braided, monofilament or fluorocarbon line followed by roughly 6-12 inches of wire leader (depending on the depth of the weeds you’re fishing). You will then have a 4 to 6 inch minnow on a 1/0 sized hook. You’ll cast your line out in areas where you think pike will be, generally areas with weeds, and wait for one to hit your minnow.
Another very common way to fish for pike with live bait is by jigging. This is where you will hook a 4-6 inch minnow through the head from bottom to top. Generally you will do your jigging in deeper water but that is not always the case depending on the type of situation you find yourself in. While jigging you will want to let your bait bounce along the bottom while occasionally lifting it roughly 2 to 3 feet off the bottom. A key tips remember while jigging this way is that pike often times strike while the bait is falling. So with every descent prepare to set the hook because these fish hit hard and fast.
You can also use a drift rig which allows you to cover a large number of definable structures. These structures include drop-offs, shorelines, and weed edges. With this type of rig you will hook a 4 to 6 inch minnow through the bottom lip. Generally you’ll use a size one hook for this. One very important factor that needs to be taken into consideration while setting up a drift rig is the fact that you need to match the speed of the drift and depth with the weight of your sinker(s). You do this by starting with a single split shot and continually adding them as needed until you hit the bottom. A pro tip is that once you feel the fish hit you need to open your bail and let the fish take line for around 5 to 10 seconds. This is to ensure that the fish gets the entire shiner, including the hook, into its mouth prior to setting the hook. Simply lower your rod tip, open the bail and let the fish take line, the close your bail and set the hook. Enjoy!
Dead bait rigs are generally kept extremely simplistic and easy for anglers to simply make on their own, but they can also be purchased if need be. Generally with a dead bait rig you want to use treble hooks because they do a better job of securely hooking and holding onto the fish but you can also use 1/0 partridge style hooks. Some of the best dead bait rigs for pike include; floating dead bait, wobbling dead bait and free line dead bait.
Floating dead bait: this is a very simple method of dead bait fishing. This consists of simply suspending the dead bait under a float. Generally you want to use a bigger size float because pike are very strong and you want to limit their ability to take the bait down with them. With this float you’ll generally have the ability to also suspend your dead bait at various depths depending on the area in which you’re fishing. Making this rig ideal for using in both shallow weed beds and around drop-offs. A tip to keep in mind is that you should always remember to pop the airbag inside of the dead bait you are using. This ensures that the bait will not float to the top but instead will remain suspended in its desired location underneath your float.
Wobbling dead bait: this type of dead bait rig allows you to continuously cast and then retrieve your dead bait. Virtually what you’ll be doing is hooking your dead bait up as if it were a lure. You’ll do this by placing treble hooks within the actual bait itself using a wire trace and then casting it out and retrieving it as if you were using any other type of pike lure. While doing this you want to ensure that the dead bait you are using is not too large. The larger the bait the more strain will be placed on the rod, the line and the reel. More often than not you will use this type of the dead bait rig where other types are not feasible. Such as fi you find yourself in a shallow river where you can’t use a floating dead bait rig, this would be your next, go to dead bait rig.
Free line dead bait: this type of dead bait rig encompasses simply a wire trace, the bait, and hooks. You simply hook your dead bait to the hooks and cast out your line. Once you’ve cast out the line you simply allow for the water to take your bait and do whatever it chooses with it. Generally speaking your bait will simply float on the surface or will sink slightly below the surface. Another option you have is to pierce the air bladders within the dead bait allowing them to sink slightly below the surface. This is easily done by puncturing them with a knife or by simply standing on top of the bait prior to hooking it up. Not only does this help to make the dead bait sink, but it also allows for natural fish oils and ‘flavoring’ to seep out of the fish helping to attract northern pike. One thing to keep in mind while using this type of dead bait rig is to allow the pike to take the bait and slightly run with it prior to setting the hook. You want to let them run with the bait to ensure that they have a complete grasp on it before raising your rod and setting the hook.
There are countless fishing lures currently on the market for pike fishing. You can easily become overwhelmed with the sheer volume of choices you have when attempting to pick the right lure for northern pike. We’ve narrowed it down to three basic lures that do wonders when it comes to attracting, and catching pike. Those three lures are spoons, soft plastic swimbaits and in-line spinners. These three types of lures come in countless color combinations and are ideal for just about any situation you will find yourself in when fishing for pike. Of course you can always find yourself a seasoned angler like Nolan over at Nolans Top Gun Charters who knows the water and the exact lures that should be used in ever situation.
Plastic swimbaits: these soft plastic lures can be altered or adapted to fit just about any scenario you can find yourself in while fishing for pike. They are extremely versatile and best of all, they’re relatively cheap. When using these plastic swimbaits you’ll want to use the ones that come in the 5 to 6 inch range. While looking for the swimbaits you can very easily become overwhelmed by the sheer number and variations available on the market. To simplify this you simply need to choose a few variations of the proper sized swimbaits, but make sure that you choose them in colors that pike are attracted to. These colors are yellow, chartreuse and white. Your retrieval pattern can vary depending on the type of swimbaits you’re using. Depending on the color and shape you’ll have to decide whether you need to have a fast or slow retrieval as well as if you need long pauses or short pauses between cranks. You’ll have to mix it up and experiment to see which retrieval and swimbait the fish are attracted to.
Spoons: spoons are another great lure option for pike. As a spoon falls and flutters through water during the angler’s retrieval it imitates a wounded or injured baitfish. Any angler who often fishes for pike more than likely has an extremely large collection of spoons. When it comes to pike, you’ll want to use bigger spoons. You want them to weigh between ¼ ounce and 1 ounce. When purchasing spoons for pike you want to make sure that they have a fair amount of silver or gold on them. These are extremely reflective and easily grab the attention of northern pike. While retrieving your spoon you’ll want to keep a consistent, slow and steady pace. You’ll want to ensure that you’re reeling just fast enough for the spoon to wobble allowing for the reflection and flutter of the light. If your spoon isn’t producing this fluttering action then you simply want to add a slight jigging motion while reeling. Spoons are extremely effective while fishing any kind of drop off because spoons allow the angler to easily and methodically control the depth of the spoon while fishing.
In-line spinners: when it comes to spinners you’ll want to make sure that you use a larger sized spinner. If you use one of the standard, smaller spinners, you’ll only attract the smaller pike. By using a spinner you’re allowing yourself to cover a greater amount of water while searching for pike. They allow the angler to quickly and effortlessly cast and retrieve, allowing for large amounts of water to be covered in a very small duration of time. Hands down the most important factor when it comes to having an effective, pike attracting spinner, are the blades. While you retrieve the spinner the blades of the spinner rotate very quickly through the water sending out pulsations and vibrations in every direction, these also attract the attention of other fish like the crappie. Because of this you will be gaining the attention of the northern pike largely due in part to the pikes extremely sensitive lateral line.
While retrieving the spinner you want to ensure that you don’t retrieve it too fast. A helpful hint is to retrieve the spinner only fast enough to keep it off the bottom or just above a weed bed. Using a spinner in early spring is an ideal time due to the fact that the weed beds have not yet grown in which alleviates and helps to lower the chances of your spinner getting stuck in the weeds. In-line spinners come in countless variations. You can find them dressed in elaborate rubber skirts, but you can also find them dressed with natural materials such as feathers or buck tail. Our recommendation is to get a few different colors that pike are generally attracted to such as yellow, chartreuse and white. Make sure you get a spinner that is between 1/6 and 1 ounce in size, the bigger the spinner the further you’ll be able to cast it. But always remember, to leave your ego at the dock.